Diary of a Restaurant Critic, Coronavirus Edition: Eating at home with a ko.an meal kit

I recently wrote about a new Chinese restaurant in Morrisville called Flavors Kitchen. I had planned to write a full starred review of the restaurant, but coronavirus intervened before I could dine there a second time and live up to my commitment to visit a restaurant at least twice before writing a starred review.

So, like everyone else in these trying times, I adapted. For my second “visit” to Flavors Kitchen, I ordered delivery and, on the theory that others might be considering that option, I described the experience.

Judging by the response to that article, lots of people are eager to learn about these safer alternatives to the traditional restaurant experience. As long as it’s necessary and feasible, I’ll continue exploring sharing my experiences of curbside takeout and delivery options.

This week, in the second installment of a (hopefully short-lived) series that I’m calling Diary of a Restaurant Critic: Coronavirus Edition, I check out the meal kits available at ko.an in Cary. I’ll also share links to a few of my favorite restaurants that are offering takeout and/or delivery.

Ko.an is the latest venture of Sean Degnan, who also owns so-ca in Cameron Village as well as the former bu.ku in downtown Raleigh.

The restaurant, located in the former An Asian Cuisines in Cary, offers a menu inspired by the cuisines of Southeast Asia. In response to the coronavirus pandemic, Degnan and executive chef Drew Smith have developed an offering of meal kits and a la carte dishes available for delivery within an 8-mile radius of the restaurant ($20 minimum order), or for curbside pickup. They’re even selling groceries, in a new list they’re dubbing “k mart.”

Figuring I’m not the only frustrated home cook with too few ingredients and too much time on their hands, I focused on the meal kits. They start at $30 to $35 for two people; double that for four. There are about four options, with a return of a Bu.ku favorite, the hot pot.

We live outside the 8-mile delivery radius, so I went the curbside takeout route. I was able to give my credit card number and add a tip over the phone, the first step in the contactless process that is ideal.

The second step was when I pulled up to the door 20 minutes later at the time I was told my order would be ready: I didn’t have to touch a thing when two employees opened my car door and placed the food inside.

I ordered two meal kits for two — they’re available in kits for two or four servings — plus a couple of appetizers. It was enough for two nights in a row of blessed relief from the previous string of “how many different ways can I think of to cook canned beans?” I also splurged on Vietnamese creme brûlée for dessert.

The first night, we started with lobster gyoza, which I pan-seared per the easy, clear directions that were included, and served with the dipping sauce that came with the kit. The Korean BBQ beef main course was also a piece of cake. Just sear the beef in 2 tablespoons of oil in a hot pan, reheat the rice in the microwave, and serve with the provided kimchi, pickles and other trimmings.

Dessert was simplest of all: Just dig in. Or, if you want to be fancy, arrange the brûlées on plates (they come two to an order) and garnish with candied sesame walnuts and orange gelée. Either way, don’t omit the crucial last step: lick every smidgeon of custard off your spoon.

Night Two began with steamed char siu pork buns. Since they had been in my fridge since the previous day, I reheated them gently in the microwave, checking every 30 seconds, until they were just heated through.

The Singapore chicken main course that followed came with directions for conventional or microwave cooking. I opted for conventional, and was pleased with the attractive sear on the juicy chicken breast that I got. In fact, though I don’t fool myself into thinking I could take chef Smith’s job, I was proud of every dish I put on the table both nights.

For dessert that second night, we had chocolate chip macadamia nut cookies. Cookies, I might add, that I hadn’t even ordered. I discovered two boxes of them, still warm from the oven, in the bag when I got home with the order. I also found a thank you card and two $10 gift cards in the bag.

And here I was thinking I was the one who should be thankful.

Ko.an

2800 Renaissance Park Place Cary. Order at koancary.com/order. For information on the grocery service, go to koancary.com/grocery.

For a list of takeout and delivery options, go to newsobserver.com. The status is changing daily, so check back frequently.

This story was originally published March 27, 2020 at 11:32 AM with the headline "Diary of a Restaurant Critic, Coronavirus Edition: Eating at home with a ko.an meal kit."