For decades now, the Triangle has looked to its restaurants to help define its identity.

We know some of the best chefs in the country are here; they have the hardware to prove it. We know some of the best restaurants in the South are here, and most of them have nothing to do with Southern food — except to show how diverse it is.

We also know the bakeries, diners, ramen shops and barbecue joints are some of our favorite places on earth.

The Triangle is a talented, ambitious and comfortable place, and our restaurants reflect every bit of what we love about living here.

So for the first time in a long while, The News & Observer has named the Top 50 Triangle restaurants, an effort to identify and celebrate the many excellent kitchens and dining rooms from Durham to Raleigh, Johnston County and Chapel Hill. This list spans the heights of fine dining to sought-after sandwiches and buttery biscuits.

It is casual and buttoned up, and hopefully it feels like home.

A few notes before we begin:

We did not rank the restaurants from No. 1 to 50, but instead captured a collection of 50 places each amazing on their own terms. This list is presented alphabetically.
For each restaurant, we’ve included a price point (or, sometimes, price range) that reflects a meal per person. The average eater can get an entree, drink and tip for: $ = $25 and under, $ $ = $26-$50, $ $ $ = $51-$100 and $ $ $ $ = $100+.
This list does not include every great meal in the Triangle, and many restaurants not on this (by nature) selective list are still our very favorites. We explained how we determined the restaurants we chose.
To accommodate these restaurants, we have an honorable mentions list, highlighting 11 spots we wish could’ve made the official 50, and an opportunity for you to tell us which restaurants you wish we had included.
Scroll to the very bottom of this list for an interactive tool that breaks down each restaurant by location, cuisine and experience.

Aaktun

The trend of all-day cafes is suddenly everywhere, promising coffee and pastries, sandwiches and late-night cocktails. No one does the all-day cafe quite like Aaktun, which looks more like a seaside Mexican cave than a restaurant. Created by current “Top Chef” contestant Oscar Diaz, the walls at Aaktun are lined with curved pink grottos that can carry whispers across the table while the sun beams in through skylights. Even still, your rum punch is the brightest thing in the room, a blend of pucker and bite.

704 Ramseur St., Durham and 401 E. Main St., Clayton | aaktun.info | $ - $ $ $

Ajja

At Ajja, you’ll perfect your dipping, swiping and dabbing as your table passes and shares whipped feta dressed with apple chutney, or the brightest yogurt dip, colored with beets, each devoured in pinches of housemade bread. The fried anchovies get a crunch from pickled fennel and crushed potato chips, and bitter coffee and sweet dried cherries set off the roasted carrots. An aromatic lamb tagine offers rich meat cut with fruity tartness. Ajja mirrors the rhythms of the best dinner parties, where the meal unfolds as you and your dining companions push platters around, sharing a journey with a skyline backdrop. James Beard-nominee Cheetie Kumar leads the kitchen at this endlessly dazzling Raleigh gem.

209 Bickett Blvd., Raleigh | ajjaeats.com | $ $ - $ $ $

Benchwarmers Bagels

The fire in this wood-burning oven was lit with an audacious idea: that great bagels could exist in the Biscuit Belt. Leave it to the fermented minds behind Raleigh’s great Boulted Bread to pull off world-class bagels while pushing the form: Grits bagels, anyone? The days of AM sellouts are over, thank goodness, meaning you can now walk up and out quickly with housemade lox atop a creamy, tangy spread of smashed deviled eggs between the explosive confetti of a crispy, chewy everything bagel. But don’t sleep on the simple $4.25 pleasure of drip coffee, plain bagel and plain cream cheese.

500 E. Davie St., #107, Raleigh (in Transfer Food Hall) and 1015 S. Saunders St., Raleigh and (to come) 540 St. Albans Drive, Raleigh | benchwarmersbagels.com | $

Big Dom’s Bagels

A funny thing happens when a bagel scene sprouts up out of nothing: anything goes. So Amber and Zach Faulisi took over a small shack that used to be a Little Caesars and turned it into a bagel shop unlike any other, possibly, in the world. Big Dom’s bakes its bagels in the conveyor belt pizza oven left behind, each bagel slicked with Crisco, coming out dappled with shatteringly crispy bubbles. The bagel sandwiches remake the standards, ham and cheese layered like laminated dough and set off with zippy “Zazzy” sauce. In the summer, you’ll want a thick slice of tomato, melted slightly under cheese.

203 E. Chatham St., Cary | bigdomsbagelshop.com | $

Bombolo

Ambitious in its indulgences, Bombolo is fearless when it comes to flavor. Shirking definitions, though ostensibly Italian-ish, you’ll find a handful of handmade pastas, like ribbons of pappardelle with rich, wild boar ragu on a menu alongside a traditional plate of fellowship hall-worthy fried chicken and mac and cheese. Chef Garret Fleming draws inspiration from Europe and Asia and has the talent to make it all make sense.

764 MLK Jr. Blvd., Chapel Hill | bombolochapelhill.com | $ $ $

Brewery Bhavana

Only part of Brewery Bhavana wants to be a restaurant. On one side, there’s the sleekest marble bar with hightop stools, seeming to answer the age-old question: Yes, there will be beer on the space station, and it will be Belgian-inspired. Then there’s the flower and book shops. But ultimately, it’s the dumplings that make Brewery Bhavana special, and the rich and dramatic xiao long bao is a must. There’s also an important lesson: Bring enough friends to split the lacquered peking duck, because what a thing to miss out on.

218 S. Blount St., Raleigh and 850 Lower Garden Lane, Cary | brewerybhavana.com | $ $ $ - $ $ $ $

Brodeto

Compared to the intimacy of Crawford & Son and Jolie, James Beard-nominated Chef Scott Crawford went big with Brodeto. The cavernous room invites a swirl of experiences, from icy oysters dressed with grapefruit or tomato, or sharply punchy razor clams tossed in Calabrian chilies and served in their shells. The pastas are tender, carefully crafted bites, like agnolotti stuffed with sweet corn and tossed with chanterelles. The wood-burning grill lends a smoky char to everything — from a thickly sliced pork chop rubbed with fennel to the burned strawberries juiced for cocktails. And after all that, somehow the simple vanilla bean soft serve, bejeweled with drops of olive oil and flaky salt, will still seem improbably delicious.

2201 Iron Works Drive, #137, Raleigh | brodeto.com | $ $ $ $

Cheeni

The depth and warmth of Cheeni surrounds you when you walk through the door. There’s a rattan rocking chair draped with a blanket, curious in a restaurant, but familiar in a home, which, of course, is what Cheeni conjures, filling a menu with regional Indian dishes from the memories of James Beard-nominated owner Preeti Waas. Don’t be embarrassed if you can’t move beyond the craveable chaat section on the menu, where masala fries in the aloo chaat or the bread pakora, essentially fried cheese sandwich, touch the deepest parts of our snacking souls. Larger dishes bring the family together; the Mangalorean chicken, a coconut curry with a slowly building heat, like being warmed by a fire.

202 Corcoran St., #100, Durham and 3151 Elion Drive, #101, Research Triangle Park | cheenidurham.com | $ $ - $ $ $

The Chicken Hut

Now in its seventh decade, the Chicken Hut is Durham’s oldest Black-owned restaurant, remaining with its founding family. The superb fried chicken is served every day, though the specials change daily, sometimes smothered pork chops or braised oxtails in a rich gravy. Though it’s named for its signature dish, it’s hard not to make a vegetable plate of boiled cabbage, collards, mac and cheese and okra. Recently Durham made the obvious official, declaring the Chicken Hut a historic landmark, noting its role as a community hub during the Civil Rights Movement and legacy as the city’s oldest Black-owned restaurant.

3019 Fayetteville St., Durham | chickenhutnc.weebly.com | $

Chuan Cafe

This is the place to come for the tingle and thrill of Szechuan cuisine, where the Spicy Chongqing noodles are slicked with chili oil and numbing peppercorns, though the fiery Dan Dan noodles are the most popular plate. Make sure to get at least one dry fried dish, maybe broccoli topped with those prickly peppercorns and dried chilies, or the crispy, tender fried flounder, served on a bamboo platter.

2004 New Bern Ave., Raleigh | chuanxiacafe.com | $ - $ $

Crawford & Son

Scott Crawford himself admits it, from the painted black exterior, the exposed brick walls, the art with elements of bullet holes: Crawford & Son appears to be an overly masculine restaurant. And yet, it serves the prettiest plates of food in the Triangle. Once, there was a cantaloupe carpaccio as lovely and luminescent as stained glass, dotted with plump blackberries, tiny tomatoes and toasted pine nuts, a drizzle of olive oil cutting the sweetness of the fruit. Ostensibly a neighborhood restaurant, Crawford remains as inventive as any Raleigh kitchen, with true daring, exacting flavors and visual wonders.

618 N. Person St., Raleigh | crawfordandsonrestaurant.com | $ $ $ $

Dame’s Chicken & Waffles

Dame’s perfected sweet and savory and helped establish Downtown Durham’s dining scene. To this day, a weekend brunch table remains one of the hottest tickets in town. There are many flavorful adventures to choose here, smears of housemade butters and syrups adding sweetness and searing spice. But don’t let the pizzazz distract you — the fried chicken really is that good.

455 S. Driver St., Durham | dameschickenwaffles.com | $ $

Dampf Good BBQ

The Dampf brothers promise a brick and mortar is on the way one day, but no one seems to mind standing in line at this perennial pop-up — the only Michelin-rated food trailer in North Carolina. You don’t need walls when the brisket is the real Texas-style deal, unctuous and heavenly, or when the sausage game is the most creative in the Triangle. Maybe they’ll have a front door one day, but we don’t care.

6800 Good Hope Church Rd, Cary | dampfgoodbbq.com | $ - $ $ $

Death & Taxes

Many of the trends in the Triangle dining scene — the wood-burning grills, the handmade pastas and ember-warmed oysters — were put in motion by Death & Taxes. The fine dining restaurant from two-time James Beard Award winner Ashley Christensen has aged into the axiom from which it takes its name: The certainties in life are death, taxes and the consistent pleasures of a crusty, smoky steak or the sweet saltiness of crab pasta.

105 W. Hargett St., Raleigh | ac-restaurants.com/death-taxes | $ $ $ $

East End Bistrot

Unabashedly luxurious, East End Bistrot veers in the opposite direction of many restaurant trends, content to leave casual cool to the Doordash crowd. Here you’ll find out why classics are classics for a reason, like the buttery pageantry of just-cooked dover sole slipped from its bones tableside. Caviar shows up in familiar and unexpected places, perhaps a sizeable spoonful on a blini, but also on crispy karaage, because why not? It takes tremendous skill to make ancient dishes feel this fresh, but that’s what restaurateur Giorgios Bakatsias does best.

2020 Progress Court #110, Raleigh | eastendbistrotraleigh.com | $ $ $ $

Elmo’s Diner

Elmo’s is proof that those charming diners from the movies truly do exist in real life. From the basic mugs filled with Counter Culture coffee, the dapple pancakes and perfectly runny eggs, everything at Elmo’s takes the mythic model of the American Diner and makes it a little bit better. Here, breakfast feels like an event and biscuits and gravy feel life-affirming, which is why if you’re searching for Elmo’s on a Sunday morning, just look for the crowd on its porch, eagerly awaiting tables.

776 9th St., Durham | elmosdiner.com | $

Ex-Voto

This isn’t the restaurant Angela Salamanca and Marshall Davis imagined they’d open, conceived in a different time as a love letter to heirloom corn, to the richness to be found in artisan tortillas. Instead, Ex-Voto is an irreverent ode to fast-food nostalgia — specifically the crunchwrap supreme. A celebration of form, these fancy crunchwraps are stuffed with braised short ribs or spicy fried shrimp, bacon-fat beans and salsas, and sealed closed with griddled cheese. Add jalapeños to truly take it over the top.

430 W. Main St., Durham (in Durham Food Hall) | exvotonc.com | $

Figulina

Three cuisines are interwoven at Figulina, where British expat chef David Ellis has created a fairly traditional Italian restaurant with a distinct Southern accent. The flagship plate (one that’s been on the menu every night since Figulina opened two years ago) is the country ham carbonara, finding the same guanciale funk in local cured hams amid the rich eggy, parmy pasta. But more recently, perhaps inspired by homesickness, Ellis has added a few British standards. The best of which is a Scotch egg, currently the only one in the Triangle, coated in nduja instead of traditional sausage, then deep fried, with the soft boiled egg still miraculously gooey on the inside.

227 S. Wilmington St., Raleigh | figulinaraleigh.com | $ $ - $ $ $

Fonda Lupita

A phenomenon since it opened, Fonda Lupita brought the gordita to the mainstream in the Triangle. These pockets of thick, griddled tortillas are stuffed with braised meats — shredded pork in green salsa is peak comfort food. You may get lucky and run into a bowl of fiery red menudo, sometimes a weekday special.

1952 S. Horner Blvd., Sanford and 905 W. Main St. #21A, Durham | fondalupita.com | $ - $ $

G’s Tacos

This popular food truck should be praised for its traveling trompo, a rarity in the Triangle’s otherwise robust taco scene. G’s is a spin-off from the giant Gym Tacos, and still operates as a food truck parked on the edge of a gas station parking lot. Everything is made in-house, from the tender griddled tortillas to the chorizo sausage. But if the trompo is spinning, how do you not get crisped-up al pastor?

220 E. Six Forks Road, Raleigh | tacosbyg.com | $

Gocciolina

The view from Guess Road can be unassuming, but inside Gocciolina is one of the Triangle’s most legendary chalkboard menus. The specials, scrawled by hand before service, are the best motivation to book an early reservation, lest you miss out on lemony sauteed clams, or a pork chop we should all be talking about more. But the regular menu is also studded with bangers, including the richest, sweetest pork meatballs in existence, and a carbonara etched on the hearts of anyone in Durham who loves pasta.

3314 Guess Road, Durham | gocciolina.com | $ $ $

Herons

How exactly can slices of squash, folded together like a rose blossom, still just be a supporting character to a tender strip of dry-aged duck breast? There are many wonders at Herons, where art on the walls will always pale to the brushstrokes of Chef Steven Devereaux Greene’s plates. The luxurious Umstead resort in Cary is among the Southern leaders in avant garde cooking, and while this tier of fine dining often seems to push boundaries simply because they are there, Herons seems to have another explanation for its motivations: because it’s beautiful.

100 Woodland Pond Drive, Cary (in The Umstead Hotel & Spa) | theumstead.com | $ $ $ $

Ideal’s Sandwich & Grocery

By the time you walk back to your car, part of the paper wrapped around your roast pork sandwich has already turned translucent, offering a greasy glimpse at the bright green broccoli rabe, the smear of garlic mayo and all the other indulgent wonders that await inside. Ideal’s happens to serve sandwiches. That is, this tiny East Durham shop, helmed by two grads of a fancy culinary school, seems able to do anything it wants, and it happens to serve otherworldly, regionally specific, frenzy-inducing sandwiches. If you’re not feeling the Philly-style roast pork on a particular day, maybe it’s time to try the chopped cheese, a Harlem icon, recreated on a Durham griddle with all the peppery, gooey, beefy intensity that a sandwich could possibly muster. Make sure you grab a bag of paper thin potato chips and at least one brown butter chocolate chip cookie.

2108 Angier Ave., Durham | idealsdeli.com | $

Lantern

There’s no other way to say it, Lantern is a mullet restaurant: business in the bright front dining room, party in the vibey back bar. It’s this back bar that’s one of the most captivating rooms in the Triangle, inky black and just barely lit by glowing red paper lanterns. Whatever the seasonal dumplings happen to be, pea shoots or pork and chive, they’re a springy, soulful must-order. Owned by James Beard winner Andrea Reusing and now nearly a quarter-century old, Lantern helped bring Asian fusion dishes to the Triangle and remains punk rock to this day.

423 W. Franklin St., Chapel Hill | lanternrestaurant.com | $ $ $ $

Lawrence Barbecue

Barbecue is a serious matter in North Carolina, but at Lawrence, it’s always serious fun. Nowhere else in the new-school barbecue world will you find the pairing of smoke and sea, with Jake Wood serving up fire-kissed roasted oysters and crab claw lollipops with herby chimichurri. But the barbecue bonafides are real, particularly with pork, where the smoked shoulders are among the Triangle’s very best, with notes of fruity sweetness. And maybe one day, Wood will win a Nobel Prize for beef fat caramel chicken wings, a dish that fulfills every promise of modern barbecue.

150 E. Cedar St., Cary | lawrencebarbecue.com | $ $ - $ $ $

Little Bull

Make sure you bring enough friends to tackle the large barbacoa plate, where succulent beef cheeks and tongue are steamed in banana leaves and pulled apart for indulgent make your own tacos. More than any other chef in the Triangle’s talented dining pool, Chef Oscar Diaz crafts an especially personal menu, using Little Bull to showcase bites, cravings and ideas he’s carried around all his life. It’s a place where velvety rich consommé is poured tableside over goat dumplings, leaving little doughy pockets of pleasure in the bright red soup. And one of the area’s most respected smashburgers is served up, but only at the sleek marble bar.

810 N. Mangum St., Durham | littlebullnc.com | $ $ $

M Sushi

The flagship of the Michael Lee restaurant empire, M Sushi established a new standard for sushi in the Triangle that no other restaurant has been able to match. Now a decade in, the hype continues to be real and deserved, with Lee still venturing to the airport to personally inspect the restaurant’s imported fish. A stool at the live edge bar at M Sushi is one of the most coveted perches in the Triangle, where astonishingly fresh cuts of fish appear as they’re ready, many seasoned with barely more than the sea itself, others with a punch of ponzu or a miraculously thin serrano pepper.

311 Holland St., Durham and 4 Fenton Main St. #120, Cary | msushidurham.m-restaurants.com | $ $ $ - $ $ $ $

M Tempura

We take frying for granted, dismissing it as common or ordinary just because you’ll most likely find it in a drive-thru. But there’s nothing ordinary about Chef Michael Lee’s M Tempura, the Triangle’s finest fry bar, where only astoundingly special things happen. The place to sit is at the bar itself, where a succession of bites will appear as they’re ready. You’ll want the scallop, arriving plump and cut in half, revealing the shimmering translucent bite of sweetness, wrapped delicately in a bit of crunch. A barely cooked scallop will always be delicious, or a head-on shrimp or fatty salmon, and M Tempura takes them to greater heights. But something totally different happens to the sweet potato, tasting like creamy candy in its own thin tempura wrapper. Certainly, frying is an art form.

111 Orange St., Durham | mtempura.m-restaurants.com | $ $ $ - $ $ $ $

Mala Pata

Corn is the star at this desert oasis kitchen and bar in Raleigh, showing up in impossibly thin and flavorful tortillas, perhaps slicked with pork fat and wrapped around warmly spiced carnitas topped with crunchy crumbles of cracklins and the zing and bite of salsa verde. Corn is also the crunch in a bright and spicy aguachile, where chilled local shrimp are dressed with chiles and corn nuts and scooped with dark heirloom tortillas. Mala Pata is just getting started, and we should all be excited about how it will grow.

2411 Crabtree Blvd., Raleigh | malapatanc.com | $ $ - $ $ $

Mothers & Sons

Before dinner service each day, the pasta is made and rolled by hand at a large communal table near the kitchen, where later that night, strangers or large groups of friends will find it as tender tagliatelle or thin dramatic tonnarelli, dyed black with squid ink. As the name suggests, Mothers & Sons is a kind of nostalgic homecoming, where diners find the immense warmth of a bowl of freshly made pasta. Or perhaps that warmth comes from the flames of a wood-burning grill, tucked just behind a serving table stacked with books and bowls, where the fire is fed with fat dripping from a porchetta. Or warmer still, a coveted seat at the bar with a half-dozen stools, where you’ll find Durham’s most vast selection of amaro, but how do you not order a Negroni?

107 W. Chapel Hill St., Durham | mothersandsonsnc.com | $ $ $

Nanas

Chef Matt Kelly is obsessed with nostalgia, but nostalgia can be a dangerous thing, longing for some real or imagined past like a golden age that slipped away. But then a server pokes a spoon through the cloud that is your real-life chocolate souffle, filling the center with hot fudge that drips in a thick, bittersweet ribbon. Or oysters, grilled over wood coals until the silky brine is just warmed and, in 2026, topped with foam of all things. Nanas doesn’t live in the past, but instead makes the timeless feel avant garde. In this velvet dining room of pure midcentury glam, you will feel cared for like you’re at your grandmother’s house.

2514 University Drive, Durham | nanasrockwood.com | $ $ $ - $ $ $ $

Nikos

The leader in a culinary revival of Durham’s Brightleaf Square, Nikos is the most personal in the vast restaurant empire of Giorgios Bakatsias. An homage to coastal Greek cuisine, a meal at Nikos begins with meze, platters of dips and vegetables to share at the table. But it’s not all comfort food; Nikos serves a stunning octopus carpaccio, arranged like a bright mosaic. As one of Durham’s Michelin-rated restaurants, Nikos proves Bakatsias still has his fastball.

905 W. Main St., Durham | nikosdurham.com | $ $ - $ $ $

Oakwood Pizza Box

Somehow Oakwood Pizza Box manages to remind you of the uncomplicated joy of your favorite childhood pizza place, where maybe you gently folded the slices and left the crusts for your parents. You probably don’t do that anymore, or shouldn’t if you’re eating at Oakwood, where the crust is as flavorful as a fine baguette. The pies are simple, but they’re not humble. There’s even a semi-secret wine list with fine Champagne and red Burgundy, cluing you in that you’ve found the good stuff.

610 N. Person St., Raleigh and 1842 Wake Forest Road, Raleigh | oakwoodpizzabox.com | $ - $ $

Peregrine

How dramatic to see the Bengali wedding chicken arrive at the table, the claw still attached to the crisped-up leg quarter, atop a creamy, nutty cashew sauce with dried rose petals. Peregrine embodies the way dining has expanded beyond the meal, to how restaurants have added flourish and swag to the menu. That’s why when you order an Old Fashioned here, a bar cart might show up, offering a range of whiskies, the cocktail stirred up in the middle of the dining room.

1000 Social St., #150, Raleigh | peregrineraleigh.com | $ $ $ - $ $ $ $

Pizzeria Mercato

The Triangle’s most obsessively seasonal restaurant happens to be a pizzeria, where the flavor and crisp of the crust rivals the very best bakeries. You’ll wait all year for the fiery sweetness of summer, because with it comes Mercato’s famous corn pizza, where shorn kernels and a cheesy sauce are set ablaze by thinly sliced serrano chiles.

408 W. Weaver St., Carrboro | pizzeriamercatonc.com | $ $ - $ $ $

Pizzeria Toro

There’s an enormous warmth in the dining room at Pizzeria Toro, perhaps fueled by the orange flames dancing in the wood-burning oven, perhaps from the feeling of being in Durham’s most effortlessly comfortable restaurant. Before the Triangle had a dozen great pizzerias, it only had one, Pizzeria Toro, turning out charred, chewy and gooey pies that elevated our sense of the slice. There’s the spicy lamb meatball, rich and bitter with crispy kale leaves, or the wild mushroom, studded with chanterelles when in season, or the clam pie, with open shells still warm from the oven and a zing of roasted garlic. And as excellent as the pizzas are, despite all that, the most famous dish is somehow, astoundingly, improbably, a kale salad, the leaves gently softened by dressing, with a salty punch of shaved parmesan cheese.

105 E. Chapel Hill St., Durham | pizzeriatoro.com | $ $ - $ $ $

Poole’s Diner

This Raleigh jewel has been the spiritual center of the Triangle’s food scene for nearly two decades. As Ashley Christensen’s original restaurant, Poole’s helped invent our understanding of contemporary Southern cuisine through dishes like the macaroni au gratin, which relies on classic French technique to create a rich, cheesy sauce and craggy, toasted crown — but would be welcome at any potluck. Recently, Poole’s expanded into a space next door, using bright skylights and a towering ceiling to usher in a new era, but the double horseshoe bar and its timeless elbow-polished counter in the original location live on.

426 S. McDowell St., Raleigh | ac-restaurants.com/pooles | $ $ - $ $ $ $

Prime BBQ

North Carolina’s proud barbecue tradition has taken an uncomfortable backseat to the nation’s buzzy obsession with Texas, swooning over brisket, dinosaur-sized beef ribs and sausage. Prime BBQ in Knightdale is a full-throated rebuttal for an entire state’s barbecue grievances. At Prime, owner and James Beard semifinalist Christopher Prieto serves tender, smoky brisket, glistening with fat and a black pepper bark, widely lauded pastrami, giant ribs and snappy sausages. But he also pushes the conversation forward, serving whole hog, North Carolina’s most cherished contribution to barbecue, but with tangy mojo sauce and rice and beans, honoring his own Puerto Rican roots. America’s barbecue scene is better for it.

403 Knightdale Station Run, Knightdale | prime-bbq.com | $ - $ $ $

Proximo

It’s possible Proximo will always be associated with the restaurant whose space it took over: the venerable Ye Olde Waffle Shoppe on Franklin Street. That could be a good thing, because Proximo often embodies the joy of food, pairing cured anchovies with potato chips, for something sharp, sour and salty; and in something of a magic trick, microwaves perfect cornbread, to be eaten draped with iberico ham, the warm bread melting the pork fat.

100 E. Franklin St., Chapel Hill | proximonc.com | $ $ $

Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets

Not that long ago, Rose’s wasn’t a restaurant at all; it was a whole-animal butcher shop that ran a ramen special for lunch one day a week. That ramen is truly something special, changing weekly and seasonally, but always a reliable umami bomb, often riffing on traditional miso and tonkotsu, even appearing as a cold tomato ramen in the searing Durham summertime. Don’t miss the steamed pork bun, pillowy and sweet, and never skip dessert, including the Triangle’s very best ice cream sandwiches — like burnt honey ice cream between gingersnap cookies.

121 N. Gregson St., Durham | rosesdurham.com | $ - $ $

Saltbox Seafood Joint

Even 150 miles inland, it seems like a wave could break in the dining room of Saltbox Seafood Joint. Of all the restaurants in the Triangle, Saltbox has the simplest concept — fried seafood — and the most difficult to pull off. In this A-frame shack, decorated with crab traps and buoys, Chef Ricky Moore keeps his promise of fresh North Carolina seafood, delicately fried, assertively seasoned and painstakingly sourced from the deep waters and cozy inlets along our coast. The James Beard Award winner draws on decades of fine dining training and experience, yet serves his sea-soaked childhood memories in paper boxes. The shrimp, oysters and grouper are as fine as fine can be, but Moore evangelizes the underloved bonefish, the croaker and spot, and looks to the seasons to write his menus. You’ll wonder if perhaps you’re tasting flounder, blue fish or mullet for the very first time.

2637 Durham-Chapel Hill Blvd., Durham | saltboxseafoodjoint.com | $ $

Sam Jones BBQ

If you’re able, you should take a drive out to Eastern North Carolina and eat at Skylight Inn, one of the state’s finest barbecue temples. If you have the same hankering for North Carolina-style whole-hog barbecue and only your lunch hour to spare, you should go to Sam Jones BBQ in Downtown Raleigh. As barbecue bloodlines go, Jones is royalty in North Carolina, a third-generation pitmaster who serves the same hand-chopped whole hog that his grandfather made famous, where the pork skin gets blasted with the coals, crisped up and mixed in for the most satisfying crunch in barbecue. But Sam Jones BBQ goes beyond that, serving smoky dry-rubbed chicken, new school sides like mac and cheese and barbecue baked potatoes and, sneakily, one of Raleigh’s best bourbon selections.

502 W. Lenoir St., Raleigh | samjonesbbq.com | $ - $ $

St. Roch

You will encounter things at St. Roch that you won’t find anywhere else in the Triangle: a solid gumbo for one, served here with potato salad, and the best local red beans and rice. Alligator bolognese for another, now in a layered lasagna. St. Roch operates as a Cajun-accented oyster bar, but it’s full of surprises. The New Orleans classic Barbecue Shrimp appears here with coconut milk. St. Roch manages to do a very rare thing for a nearly 10-year-old restaurant: It keeps getting better.

223 S. Wilmington St., Raleigh | strochraleigh.com | $ $ - $ $ $

Stanbury

You probably have a friend who is one of your best friends, who you slowly realize is actually everyone’s best friend. Stanbury is everyone’s secret best friend. Everyone thinks this Raleigh neighborhood restaurant is a “hidden gem,” but instead it is the Triangle’s worst-kept secret. Stanbury rules, and everyone knows it. Above all, Stanbury proves that “make it good” is the only rule that matters in restaurants. On this fine dining pirate ship, you could try (if it’s on the often-changing menu that night) pho-spiced boiled peanuts, Nashville-style fish collard or an indulgent pastrami-spiced pork chop. Here, good has never tasted so fun.

938 N. Blount St., Raleigh | stanburyraleigh.com | $ $ $ - $ $ $ $

Standard Beer + Food

If you’re keeping track, this is Standard 3.0, one restaurant over a decade of time and in three very different iterations. Today’s Standard Beer + Food is by far the most casual and by far the most fun. This Standard came about in the age of the smashburger, and happens to serve the Triangle’s very best, guaranteed to slick your fingers with fat and stir your soul. Standard bubbles up to the top of a certain kind of popular restaurant concept — elevated bar food — largely because every dish, from tangy, tingly buffalo wings, to fancified tater tots hit with truffle, is the best version of itself. It also, as the name implies, Standard brews its own beers: clean basic versions of lagers and bright IPAs that are refreshingly, uncomplicatedly simple, crushable, wonderful.

205 E. Franklin St., Raleigh | standardbeerandfood.com | $ $ - $ $ $

Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen

In the South, a biscuit is an expression of love. At Sunrise, that love is simple and sublime, with little more than a pat of butter. The biscuits at Sunrise, crumbly and tender, bake up deeply browned. Since it’s drive-thru-only, most are eaten in the driver’s seats of cars, unfurled from parchment paper on dashboards as if waiting even a moment more would spoil the gift. Though the adornments of a biscuit are a personal journey, a piece of fried chicken with sharp Texas Pete hot sauce seems like a good way to start the best mornings.

1305 E. Franklin St., Chapel Hill | sunrisebiscuits.com | $

Tamasha

Perhaps Raleigh’s most theatrical restaurant, Tamasha brings the drama to the dining room. Elegant, with a touch of maximalist, diners cozy up in green velvet booths and experience Indian flavors and flare in ways the Triangle never has before. It’s the gunpowder spice of dried chiles that sets off the Dakhni Jhinga, a shrimp dish where the heat is tempered with coconut milk. But the real fireworks come at the end with the dessert everyone orders: North Meets South, where a crispy spongy ghewar, as delicate as fried air, soaks up the creamy Elaneer payasam, poured tableside, for the most ornate coconut pudding.

4200 Six Forks Road, Raleigh | tamashanc.com | $ $ $ - $ $ $ $

Viceroy

Inside, Viceroy is a mashup of British pub and family parlor, with antique portraits staring out from the walls. Irresistible crispy bites like gobi sukka and samosas are popular, as are some of the Triangle’s best curries, fiery and familiar. The cumin-scented jeera wings could make for a meal if you’re, understandably, unwilling to share.

335 W. Main St., Durham | viceroydurham.com | $ $ - $ $ $

Vin Rouge

When you order the chocolate mousse at Vin Rouge, it arrives in a giant enameled terrine, scooped tableside as a kind of final performance to the meal. As dense as lava, but as ephemeral on your tongue as a whispered secret, this dessert remains one of the Triangle’s sweetest moments. Each dining room at Vin Rouge offers a different experience: an intimate, quiet celebration in the back, a luscious garden on the side (perhaps best suited for a shellfish tower), and a raucous front room, where no one will hear you slurping the broth from your moules frites.

2010 Hillsborough Road, Durham | vinrougerestaurant.com | $ $ $ - $ $ $ $

Zweli’s Ekhaya

We miss the peanut butter collard greens from the now-closed Zweli’s cafe. But some of the dishes and flavors live on in Ekhaya, one of the Triangle’s most vibrant and personal restaurants, and the only Bantu tapas restaurant in North Carolina, if not even further. The peri peri wings are a signature dish, smoky and sharp, or reach beyond for skewers of nutty, suya-crusted chicken, or Bobotie, similar to a Shepherd’s pie, with sweet minced meat covered by savory custard.

406 Blackwell St., Durham | zwelisekhaya.com | $ $ - $ $ $

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Triangle Town Center is on seventh owner and losing anchors. Some see potential

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