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It’s the scariest ghost tour in Raleigh — because all of its spooky stories are true

The Briggs Hardware building on Fayetteville St. in downtown Raleigh is home to the city’s museum, which will host its popular Dark Raleigh tour this week featuring the gruesome tale of a death inside its walls.
The Briggs Hardware building on Fayetteville St. in downtown Raleigh is home to the city’s museum, which will host its popular Dark Raleigh tour this week featuring the gruesome tale of a death inside its walls. ctoth@newsobserver.com

In 1939, with the Great Depression still raging, R.P. Jones walked into Raleigh’s busiest store with $5 in his pocket — quite likely the last of his money.

He’d lucked into a job driving a laundry truck, which he crashed.

Then he’d further lucked into a forgiving boss who gave him a second truck, which he also wrecked.

So with his fortune expired, he asked the clerk at Briggs Hardware to see a rifle. Not the expensive $22 model. The $4 rifle with the high-powered cartridges.

Then as the cashier took his money, Jones knelt on the floor, pressed the gun to his forehead and pulled the trigger — ending his ordeal on a crowded sales floor, never hearing the clerk’s gruesome punchline:

“He didn’t even wait for his change.”

R.P. Jones lies buried in Wakefield Cemetery in Zebulon after shooting himself to death in public during the Great Depression in Raleigh in 1939.
R.P. Jones lies buried in Wakefield Cemetery in Zebulon after shooting himself to death in public during the Great Depression in Raleigh in 1939. Josh Shaffer

Dark Raleigh walking tours

This story of desperation, madness and public bloodshed kicks off this year’s Dark Raleigh walking tours coming Thursday and Friday — a collection of scary stories all the more terrifying because they actually happened.

In a city with a century-old habit of sweeping away its history, building parking decks and Subway franchises on the street where it used to hold public hangings, these real-life ghosts scream from the past louder than any dusty phantom peeking out a window somewhere.

On this tour, the City of Raleigh Museum starts off with the bloodstains in its own building — which was once the haunted hardware store where Jones gave in to his demons.

“Everybody does ghost stories,” said Ernest Dollar, museum director. “We are purveyors of facts. Raleigh is not the pristine college and government town that we are told about. It does have its dark corners, and we celebrate them every year.”

The City of Raleigh Museum will host a pair of tours highlighting real-life scary stories from the city streets, including a gruesome death inside its own Briggs Hardware building.
The City of Raleigh Museum will host a pair of tours highlighting real-life scary stories from the city streets, including a gruesome death inside its own Briggs Hardware building. Josh Shaffer

Walking Civil War skeletons

Dark Raleigh started in 2016 with Dollar and museum staff leading crowds through the city’s recesses, offering a rubberneck view at its tortured spirits. But the idea grew as more crowds kept coming, and now the voices of Raleigh’s doomed get delivered by live actors.

Instead of ghost dogs or spooks rattling chains, Dollar offers the story of the walking skeletons of Union soldiers marching back from Andersonville Prison after months of starvation, dysentery and typhoid fever.

As one of them passes through downtown Raleigh, he spies a stray dog on the street, grabs it and eats it raw while crowds look on.

“Andersonville, right?” said Dollar, recalling a Dark Raleigh nugget from the past.

The tour includes no midnight meetings with demons, no witches tossing newts in a cauldron, and, thank the stars, no Crybaby Lane — a sham Raleigh ghost story riddled with factual errors.

Raleigh’s notorious former madam

But it does include the story of Bertha Brown, Raleigh’s notorious madam of the 1920s and ‘30s whom Dollar describes as “a woman of many means.”

“Ever been to Transfer Food Hall?” asked Dollar. “If you are eating there, you are eating in what was Raleigh’s Red Light District.”

Ernest Dollar, executive director of the City of Raleigh Museum, expects another sold-out set of Dark Raleigh tours in advance of Halloween this week.
Ernest Dollar, executive director of the City of Raleigh Museum, expects another sold-out set of Dark Raleigh tours in advance of Halloween this week. Josh Shaffer

And it does tell the story of William Avera, the Raleigh carpet-layer who in 1916 spent three months tracking down his kidnapped baby boy.

“The actor who plays him absolutely tears your heart out and stomps on it,” said Dollar.

He makes clear that the museum doesn’t make light of these poor spirits. They are not portrayed in a joking way.

Rather, these tours aim to dig out the terrible dramas Raleigh has hidden in the night, hoping nobody would notice or remember, then dust off the victims and let their anguished voices make for a true Halloween.

If you want to go

Dark Raleigh walking tours run at multiple times on Thursday, Oct. 26, and Friday, Oct. 27. Tickets cost $25 and can be purchased by following the links at www.cityofraleighmuseum.org.

This story was originally published October 23, 2023 at 6:00 AM with the headline "It’s the scariest ghost tour in Raleigh — because all of its spooky stories are true."

Josh Shaffer
The News & Observer
Josh Shaffer is a general assignment reporter on the watch for “talkers,” which are stories you might discuss around a water cooler. He has worked for The News & Observer since 2004 and writes a column about unusual people and places.
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