These 64 North Carolina BBQ joints make up the landscape of the state’s most famous food
This is the final installment in our The State of Barbecue series.
From the church pew to the dive bar, the debate has burned on forever.
Who makes the best barbecue in North Carolina?
It’s a question that depends on the day, maybe on the season, answered mostly by a diner’s personal taste and history. For years the debate drew lines of what is and is not barbecue, marking Eastern and Western styles defined by whole hog and pork shoulders — distinctions made between peppered vinegar and ketchup.
Now the debate is broader as the state’s barbecue landscape has changed, embracing brisket and beef ribs, burnt ends and spareribs, complicating the questions of where to find the best chopped or pulled pork.
We’ve compiled an expansive list here of 64 notable North Carolina barbecue restaurants. This list is by no means comprehensive, but is an honest look at this barbecue moment in North Carolina. There are spots nearly a century old and others that opened during the pandemic, some the ideal mom-and-pop destinations and others growing chains.
Barbecue is a centuries-old tradition suddenly finding itself on the cutting edge of culinary trends. Here’s a snapshot of some of the restaurants that made North Carolina into a barbecue region and others that will define it for years to come.
Happy eating. And don’t forget to vote in our poll.
The Triangle
Allen and Son Bar-B-Que
5650 US-15, Pittsboro. 919-542-2294 or stubbsandsonbbq.com.
The original Allen & Son closed in Chapel Hill in 2018, but Jimmy Stubbs continues to operate this independent location in Pittsboro, still drawing crowds after two decades. Stubbs also serves the same chopped shoulder pork at Stubbs & Son in Sanford and Carthage.
Backyard BBQ Pit
5122 NC-55, Durham. 919-544-9911 or sweetribs.com
Before the great barbecue boom currently going on in the Triangle, Backyard stood out as one of the region’s top barbecue spots. That reputation remains today, with Backyard making the convincing case that smoked turkey can rival pork shoulders, but don’t forget about ribs. Backyard is routinely mentioned in national publications’ top North Carolina barbecue picks.
Big Mikes BBQ
1222 NW Maynard Rd., Cary. 919-799-2023 or brewnquenc.com
2045 Creekside Landing Dr., Apex. 919-338-2591
As new school as it gets, Big Mikes pairs two great North Carolina products, craft beer and barbecue. On the barbecue side, the philosophy is smoked shoulders sauced in the Eastern NC way, plus beef brisket and dry-rubbed baby back ribs. In pushing the barbecue boundaries, Big Mikes also fries up BBQ egg rolls.
Bullock’s Bar-B-Cue
3330 Quebec Dr, Durham. 919-383-3211 or bullocks-bbq.com
The walls of Bullock’s are covered with the photos and autographs of the famous and powerful who happened to stop by for a plate of barbecue. Durham’s oldest restaurant started smoking pork shoulders in 1952 and endures today, still serving the gospel of okra fried to perfection, bet-you-can’t-eat-just-five hushpuppies and many people’s favorite barbecue.
Carolina Barbecue
733 Highway 70 W., Garner. 919-773-0222 or cbqnc.com
An old-fashioned whole hog spot just a hop and a skip from Downtown Raleigh, Carolina Barbecue is a name carrying the weight of a statewide obsession. Spanning two decades, Carolina Barbecue continues to be popular for Southern Wake barbecue fans looking for a traditional Southern meal.
City Barbecue
More than 50 locations nationally. Citybbq.com
Barbecue chains can be a controversial subject, but with dozens of locations across the country and a major presence in North Carolina, City Barbecue is in the game, serving a menu catering to all tastes and regions with pulled pork, brisket and ribs.
Clyde Cooper’s Barbeque
327 S. Wilmington St., Raleigh. 919-832-7614 or clydecoopersbbq.com
An icon of Downtown Raleigh, one of the city’s oldest restaurants and one of the state’s oldest barbecue joints, Clyde Cooper’s is the smoked pork standard bearer for the capital city. Office heroes will bring back bags of pork rinds from their lunch breaks and the smell of wood smoke and pork will waft between the Raleigh skyscrapers, proving for nearly a century that barbecue doesn’t always mean a drive out to the country.
Hillsborough BBQ Company
236 S. Nash St. Hillsborough. 919-732-4647 or hillsboroughbbq.com
For years considered among the top barbecue spots in the Triangle, Hillsborough serves tried and true pork shoulders sauced in the Eastern North Carolina way with vinegar and pepper. More than a decade in, Hillsborough BBQ continues cooking in a pit over all wood coals.
Hog Heaven Bar-B-Q
2419 Guess Rd., Durham. 919-286-7447 or facebook.com/people/hog-heaven-bar-b-q
The popular old-fashioned spot in the Bull City is 20 years old this year and continues to be a destination for barbecue fans, serving chopped pork shoulders, fried chicken and daily special sides.
Lawrence Barbecue
900 Park Offices Dr., Suite 120, Durham. 919-593-6923 or lawrencebarbecue.com
Serving a barbecue menu unlike any other in the state, you’ll find roasted and raw oysters, Brussels sprouts and lots of smoky vibes alongside the popular brisket and pork at Lawrence.
Maverick’s Smokehouse
900 W. Main St., Durham. 919-682-8978 or maverickssmokehouse.com
Maverick’s serves a menu offering a tour of America’s barbecue styles, touching on Texas brisket and Memphis ribs, but often smokes Carolina-style whole hog on the restaurant’s patio, wafting smoke through Durham’s Brightleaf District.
Ole Time Barbecue
6309 Hillsborough St., Raleigh. 919-859-2544 or oletimebarbecue.com
At only 28 years, Ole Time isn’t as old as the name suggests, but the menu is a classic slice of North Carolina, from the smoked pork barbecue to the chicken and pastry and Brunswick stew, all made near downtown Raleigh.
The Original Q Shack
2510 University Dr., Durham. 919-402-4227 or theoriginalqshackdurham.com
A fun and casual Durham neighborhood spot that offers an array of barbecue perspectives, from meaty pork spare ribs to chili-rubbed brisket. The brand launched other locations around the state, but the original opened in Durham nearly 20 years ago.
Picnic
1647 Cole Mill Rd., Durham. 919-908-9128 or picnicdurham.com
Serving traditional whole hog barbecue made from pigs raised just a few miles away, Picnic is a time machine into North Carolina’s barbecue past and a leader in its future. Beyond the pork, you’ll find one of the state’s best fried chicken sandwiches and on hot days a boozy frozen drink.
The Pig
630 Weaver Dairy Rd., Suite 101, Chapel Hill. 919-942-1133 or thepigrestaurant.com
The Pig is part of a larger pork-centric operation and is a sister restaurant to artisan country ham maker Lady Edison. Serving smoked whole hog barbecue, The Pig makes use of the entire pig, turning what doesn’t become sandwiches and plates into hot dogs and bologna.
The Pit Authentic BBQ
328 W. Davie St., Raleigh. 919-890-4500 or thepit-raleigh.com
321 W. Geer St., Durham. 919-282-3748 or thepit-durham.com
Likely the Triangle’s most famous barbecue restaurant, The Pit helped brighten the spotlight of the state’s most cherished culinary tradition. Serving both eastern and western styles, The Pit is often where out-of-towners first get a taste of North Carolina barbecue.
Prime Barbecue
403 Knightdale Station Run, Knightdale. 919-373-8067 or prime-bbq.com
One of the loveliest dining rooms built in the Triangle in the past few years is this Knightdale barbecue spot. Prime serves barbecue market style and is made for a line, which you’ll generally find hugging the giant glass windows. Once at the front you’ll find juicy briskets unwrapped in front of you, still warm and giggly. There’s a Texan ethos running through Prime, but don’t sleep on the Saturday whole hog.
Redneck BBQ Lab
12101-B NC Hwy 210, Benson. 919-938-8334 or theredneckbbqlab.com
Since it opened in a McGee’s Crossroads gas station five years ago, the Redneck BBQ Lab has been at the forefront of the state’s new cue trend, serving pastrami and popularizing burnt ends, alongside pulled pork and ribs.
Skipper’s Seafood & Smokehouse
1001 E. Williams St., Apex. 919-303-2400 or skippersfish.com
Barbecue at a seafood restaurant can often be a recipe for disaster but Skipper’s added a smoker to its fish fry and now makes formidable brisket and sticky spareribs.
Smithfield’s Chicken ‘N Bar-B-Q
Thirty locations across North Carolina. Scnbnc.com
This North Carolina chain is the largest group of barbecue restaurants in the state, with more than two dozen locations. Some may sneer at the idea of chain barbecue, but Smithfield’s has its fans. And the Brunswick stew is the real deal.
Stephenson’s Bar-B-Q
11964 NC-50, Willow Spring. 919-894-4530.
Stephenson’s is the closest stop on the Historic NC BBQ Trail to Downtown Raleigh, serving pit-smoked pork shoulders dressed with a vinegar sauce, a barbecue distinctly smoky and well-seasoned and the reason its gravel lot sees a never-ending stream of cars all day long.
Eastern North Carolina
B’s Barbecue
751 State Rd 1204, Greenville. 252-758-7126
As historic as they come in the North Carolina barbecue realm, B’s serves revered whole hog and pit-smoked chicken. It’s cash only, and on Saturdays, the lines start early, with that smoky, crispy chicken often the first dish to fly off the menu.
Boogie’s Turkey BBQ
5008 Elm City Rd., Elm City. 252-236-3141 or facebook.com/boogies-turkey-bbq
There is barbecue beyond pork and brisket in North Carolina. Boogie’s makes the case you won’t miss either, serving up chopped pit-cooked turkey that to many eyes could be a chopped pork sandwich.
Bum’s Restaurant
566 3rd St., Ayden. 252-746-6880 or bumsrestaurant.net
First and foremost, Bum’s is an all-day diner, not just a barbecue spot. But try telling that to generations of fans stopping by for one of North Carolina’s last old-school whole hog joints, served cafeteria-style alongside some of the state’s best barbecue sides.
Fowler’s Barbecue
723 W. Rowan St., Fayetteville. 910-491-5721 or fowlerssoutherngourmet.com
What started as Fowler’s Southern Gourmet has morphed into Fowler’s Barbecue, emphasizing what this five-year-old Fayetteville restaurant is all about. Decidedly new school, Fowler’s claim to fame is sticky and sweet burnt ends, but look for pork and brisket by the pound and some of the most creative sandwiches in the state’s barbecue landscape.
Fuller’s Old Fashioned
113 N. Eastern Blvd. Fayetteville. 910-484-5109 or fullersbbq.com
Fuller’s is one of only a handful of restaurants along Interstate 95 serving wood-cooked barbecue, operating for more than 30 years as a traditional Southern buffet, where chopped pork stars alongside fried chicken and numerous daily sides.
Grady’s Barbecue
3096 Arrington Bridge Rd., Dudley. 919-735-7243 or facebook.com/gradysbbqnc
Started as a second career by middle-aged newlyweds Steve and Geri Grady, this Eastern North Carolina destination honors the oldest traditions in barbecue, smoking whole hog through the night, served with freshly made sides for lunch. Ideally polished off with a slice of sweet potato pie.
King’s Restaurant
405 E. New Bern Rd., Kinston. 252-572-2101 or kingsbbq.com
910 W. Vernon Ave. Kinston. 252-527-1661
At 86 years old, King’s is one of the oldest barbecue restaurants in the state and today ships its smoked pork all over the nation. An appearance on “The Drew Barrymore Show” put King’s in a contest to name the best barbecue in America. It didn’t win, but King’s is already famous for its Pig in a Puppy, a barbecue sandwich on a hushpuppy bun.
Mema’s Chick’n’ & Ribs
602 US-117, Burgaw. 910-300-6139 or memaschicknandribs.com
This strip mall gem is right off of Interstate 40 outside of Wilmington. Mema’s specialty is pork ribs, racks of baby backs and thick country-style ribs, but also features smoked half chickens and pulled pork. If you’re looking for a new side dish in the barbecue world, check out the fried mushrooms.
Marty’s BBQ
2643 Ward Blvd., Wilson. 252-281-1709 or martysbbq.com
Founded by Lawrence Ellis, the son of Bill’s Barbecue owner, the late Bill Ellis, Marty’s is often mentioned as the best barbecue in Wilson since opening in 2018. Marty’s is true to the region and its ancestry, serving Eastern North Carolina pork dressed with a vinegar sauce. The restaurant will remain open but change ownership, following the death last year of Lawrence Ellis.
Morris Barbeque
891 Morris BBQ Rd., Hookerton. 252-747-2254 or morrisbarbeque.com
Morris only serves on Saturdays, opening its doors at 8 a.m. and selling out of prized pork skins before you can say “lunchtime.” The whole hog barbecue is cooked warmer and a little faster than most, but while smoking since 1931, Morris has found its own brand of perfection.
Old Colony Smokehouse
802 W. Queen St., Edenton. 252-482-2400 or oldcolonysmokehouse.com
From Adam Hughes, the winner of a special North Carolina barbecue edition of “Chopped,” this new school barbecue destination does everything the hard way. It makes everything in-house, right down to the pickles and array of sausages. But most people stop in for the brisket, done up Texas style and served with a plea not to slather it in sauce. It won’t need any.
Parker’s Barbecue
2514 US-301, Wilson. 252-237-0972 or facebook.com/parkers-barbecue-wilson
For generations of Eastern North Carolinians, barbecue meant Parker’s. Maybe a combo plate with chopped pork and perfect fried chicken, a side of Brunswick stew and long thin corn sticks, a saltiness paired best with sweet tea.
Sam Jones BBQ
502 W. Lenoir St., Raleigh. 984-206-2555 or samjonesbbq.com
715 W. Fire Tower Rd., Winterville. 252-689-6449
Picking up where his family’s Skylight Inn leaves off, third-generation pitmaster Sam Jones took perfected whole hog techniques and then expanded a menu with spareribs, mac and cheese and even added a bar.
Sid’s Catering
455 S. Railroad Ave., Beulaville. 910-298-3549
To get whole hog barbecue from Sid’s Catering, you’ll drive out to Beulaville on Saturday morning (it’s only open Saturdays) and follow the long line of cars slowly creeping behind Sid’s house. The restaurant is out back, and keep your fingers crossed there’s still pork skin left. The menu is plates or sandwiches of that whole hog barbecue, slaw, hush puppies and pit-smoked chicken.
Shepard Barbecue
7801 Emerald Dr., Emerald Isle. 252-764-2387 or facebook.com/shepardbarbecue
On a coastal strip filled with seafood joints, Shepard raises the expectations for barbecue at the beach. Brisket is the top seller, but Shepard serves a daring menu, where some days you’ll find smoked meatloaf sandwiches, tacos or smoked cheesesteaks.
Skylight Inn
4618 Lee St., Ayden. 252-746-4113 or skylightinnbbq.com
There’s a James Beard medal on the wall of this whole hog joint with a gravel parking lot. Skylight Inn, Pete Jones Barbecue, this historic pit has several names, but many just call it the best.
Southern Smoke BBQ
29 Warren St., Garland. 910-549-7484 or southernsmokebbqnc.com
Open two days a week, Southern Smoke serves traditional pork shoulders cooked over coals, but that’s usually where the old-school ways end. Beyond the pork, Southern Smoke is always pushing boundaries for a barbecue joint, serving smoked cheeseburgers, garlicky mac and cheese and hot honey chicken.
Thig’s BBQ House
1722 Catherine Lake Rd., Jacksonville. 910-262-1136 or thigsbbq.com.
A pre-pandemic fire forced Thig’s to transform into a food truck in the restaurant’s parking lot while the rebuild continues. Opened 33 years ago, Thig’s has made its fans by serving traditional chopped pork, but also finding its own brand of barbecue restaurant, serving brunch and chili cheese fries and even lumpia on occasion.
Wilber’s BBQ
4172 US-70, Goldsboro. 919-778-5218 or wilbersbbq.com
This historic pit restaurant in Goldsboro was nearly lost a couple years go, but has been revived by new owners aiming to return it to its former glory. They did that and then some, keeping true to Wilber’s whole hog legacy but adding modern updates like brisket and even beer.
Western North Carolina
Backcountry Barbeque
4014 Linwood-Southmont Rd., Linwood. 336-956-1696 or facebook.com/backcountry-barbeque
Situated on the outer edge of Lexington, Backcountry serves Piedmont’s signature style, chopped and coarse chopped shoulders, tomato-based sauce and red slaw. But unlike many Lexington barbecue purist spots, you’ll find brisket on the menu.
Bar-B-Q Center
900 N. Main St., Lexington. 336-248-4633 or barbecuecenter.net
One of the historic smokers of Lexington-style, Bar-B-Q Center serves chopped smoked shoulders in a pristine diner. You’ll want to bring a group and grab the large booth by the window. And while the pork can rival many in the state, none can equal the banana split.
Camel City BBQ Factory
701 N. Liberty St., Winston-Salem. 336-306-9999 or camelcitybbq.com
Camel City BBQ brought new-school barbecue to downtown Winston-Salem and added an arcade. Look for the new barbecue triumvirate of pulled pork, brisket and ribs and the new familiars like barbecue nachos, smoked wings and star-worthy sides.
Clark’s Barbecue
1331 NC-66, Kernersville. 336-996-8644 or clarksbbqnc.com
At less than 30 years old, Clark’s is still a baby by North Carolina barbecue standards. But if you’re cooking in the old style, pork shoulders over wood coals, the result can be timeless. Clark’s deals in Lexington-style pork and red slaw, offering coarse chopped meat with plenty of that outside brown.
Fuzzy’s Bar-B-Q Restaurant
407 Hwy St., Madison. 336-427-4130 or fuzzysbbqmadison.com
The northern-most stop on the Historic North Carolina BBQ Trail, Fuzzy’s is an all-day diner cooking its pork shoulders strictly with wood. The barbecue at Fuzzy’s is more chopped than the average plate, and in the Lexington-sphere, you’ll find tomato-based sauce to add and red slaw.
Hursey’s Bar-B-Q
1834 S. Church St., Burlington. 336-570-3838 or hurseysbarbecue.com
In the barbecue business since the 1940s, Hursey’s has a smoked pork empire in Alamance County. A major stop on the Historic NC BBQ Trail, Hursey’s continues to be a destination for locals and travelers along Interstate 40.
Lexington Barbecue
100 Smokehouse Ln., Lexington. 336-249-9814 or lexbbq.com
This legendary barbecue spot is a worthy standard-bearer for the style that shares its name. Lexington serves as classic a version of pork shoulders over coals as exists, sauced with the warm red tomato-based dip. When the combination of outside brown and smokey meat is right, there are few things finer.
Little Richard’s BBQ
6470 Stadium Dr., Clemmons. 336-766-0401 or littlerichardsbarbeque.com
With a large menu full of barbecue twists and turns, putting tacos and brisket cheesesteaks and smoked wings side by side, Little Richard’s and its multiple locations appear to be pushing the evolution of North Carolina barbecue. But with smoked pork served chopped, coarse or sliced, it’s clear its heart lives in Lexington.
Mr. Barbecue
1381 Peters Creek Pkwy, Winston-Salem. 336-725-7827 or mrbarbecue-nc.com
Revived from a fire that kept the restaurant closed for two years, Mr. Barbecue is up to its old ways — ways that date back to 1962, serving Lexington-style pork plates and sandwiches cooked with wood.
Prissy Polly’s BBQ
729 NC Highway 66 South, Kernersville. 336-993-5045 or prissypollys.com
Best known for its memorable name and highway billboards, Prissy Polly’s is a wildly popular stop for travelers. Despite its location in the Triad, you’ll find Eastern and Lexington-style pork.
Real Q
4885 Country Club Rd., Winston-Salem. 336-760-3457 or real-q.com
Its name suggests fraud exists in the barbecue world, that there are plates of smoked pork masquerading as something they are not. Well at this Winston-Salem spot, the site of the original Little Richard’s, that means pit-smoked pork shoulders over wood coals, cooking for a dozen or so hours, chopped and seasoned and sauced with tomato-y vinegar.
Short Sugar’s Pit Bar-B-Q
1328 S. Scales St., Reidsville. 336-342-7487 or shortsugars.com
Any way you chop it, Short Sugar’s has one of the best names in North Carolina barbecue. This popular Piedmont spot is also one of the most striking, still serving in a crisp and clean drive-in building. The pork shoulders are served minced, chopped or sliced.
Speedy’s Barbecue
1317 Winston Rd., Lexington. 336-248-2410 or speedysbbqinc.com
In the heart of Lexington, Speedy’s has been a popular draw for more than 50 years in a town crowded with barbecue. Serving lunch and dinner, Speedy’s barbecue is pork shoulders chopped how you like it. Pork skin costs extra, but when is it not worth it?
Stamey’s Barbecue
2206 W. Gate City Blvd., Greensboro. 336-299-9888 or stameys.com
Founded more than 90 years ago, Stamey’s is often credited in barbecue lore with creating the elements we know as the Lexington style. The oldest location is right across the street from the Greensboro Coliseum. Once upon a time, an afternoon of ACC basketball and a Stamey’s sandwich was a particular kind of North Carolina delight.
Southwest NC
Apple City BBQ
3490 NC-16 South, Taylorsville. 828-471-5215 or applecitybbq.com
Smoking and serving a menu blending North Carolina styles, Apple City BBQ sits at the crossroads of the state’s barbecue evolution. You’ll find pulled pork shoulders, red and white slaw, sliced brisket and pork ribs, and only wood fueling the smoker.
Bar-B-Q King
2613 E. Main St., Lincolnton. 704-735-1112 or barbqkingnc.com
Doing it for more than 50 years, Bar-B-Q King has aged into the oldest tier of North Carolina joints. It’s still doing things the same way, smoking a couple dozen whole pork shoulders, hand-chopped and tinged with red sauce.
Buxton Hall BBQ
32 Banks Ave., Asheville. 828-232-7216 or buxtonhall.com
This Asheville restaurant arguably set in motion North Carolina’s barbecue revival, smoking traditional whole hog indoors in a kitchen, making frozen cocktails and creative sides and better-than-a-potluck banana pudding pie.
The Honey Hog/Johnny Ray’s Smokehouse
4629 Fallston Rd., Fallston. 704-312-6013 or facebook.com/thehoneyhog
This new school barbecue spot has quickly made a name for itself, even as that name has shifted recently from The Honey Hog to Johnny Ray’s Smokehouse. Owner John Bousselot (Johnny Ray) is both the farmer and the pitmaster, raising some of the pigs and cows eventually served in the restaurant. Johnny Ray’s leans more to the brisket side of the barbecue swing, but there’s pulled pork, smoked wings and a devotion to pushing the burger limits.
JD’s Smokehouse
500 Malcolm Blvd., Rutherford College. 828-522-1227 or jds-smokehouse.com
There’s a stack of wood out front of JD’s Smokehouse, partly for storage, partly as a signal to diners that if they’re looking for traditional wood-smoked barbecue, they found it at this Burke County restaurant. The style is pulled pork shoulders, plus sliced brisket and baby back ribs. Bags of pork rinds are fried up the four days a week JD’s is open.
Jon G’s Barbecue
116 Glenn Falls St., Peachland. 704-272-6301 or jongsbarbecue.com
Open Saturdays only, Jon G’s has turned a barbecue meal into an experience. Diners line up for hours, tailgating and salivating for the Texas-style brisket, beef ribs, pork belly burnt ends and pulled pork that await them. Bring a crew and a cooler and a few chairs and order anything that’s not sold out.
Midwood Smokehouse
Six locations in North and South Carolina. midwoodsmokehouse.com
Founded in Charlotte and taking its name from the Plaza Midwood neighborhood, this wildly popular barbecue brand has fed celebrities and politicians its version of wood-smoked brisket and pork. Midwood will launch its latest restaurant in Downtown Raleigh.
Noble Smoke
2216 Freedom Dr., Charlotte. 704-703-5252 or noblesmokebarbecue.com
A high-profile part of North Carolina’s new generation of barbecue, Noble has a longer wine list than some restaurants have menus. Yes, the state’s cue is changing, but with its heritage breed smoked pork, sliced brisket and a list of sides more than a dozen items long, fans of Noble embrace some forms of change.
Red Bridges BBQ Lodge
2000 E. Dixon Blvd., Shelby. 704-482-8567 or bridgesbbq.com
One of North Carolina’s most famous barbecue restaurants, Red Bridges perfected its own version of western-style chopped pork shoulders, sauced with vinegar and ketchup and not changing a thing for nearly 80 years. Last year, Bridges matriarch Lyttle Bridges was inducted into the national Barbecue Hall of Fame.
Sweet Lew’s BBQ
923 Belmont Ave., Charlotte. 980-224-7584 or sweetlewsbbq.com
This four-year-old Charlotte spot blends chef-driven creativity with old-fashioned wood smoke. That means staples like daily brisket and smoked chickens, but also lamb ribs and smoked duck breast and smoked salmon snacks.
This story was originally published August 24, 2022 at 6:00 AM with the headline "These 64 North Carolina BBQ joints make up the landscape of the state’s most famous food."
