Food & Drink

Barbecue restaurant gets complaints about lack of masks. Then customers rally around it.

One of the icons of Eastern North Carolina barbecue is at the center of a coronavirus-related controversy.

Parker’s Barbecue in Wilson found itself in the news this week after a customer complained about employees not wearing masks, as first reported by WRAL.

Following that report, a Facebook group of Parker’s supporters was started and has grown to 24,000 members. According to the group’s public Facebook page, fans plan to meet at the restaurant this Saturday for lunch, with many vowing not to wear a mask.

The COVID-19 pandemic is now entering its seventh month, with North Carolina reporting more than 200,000 cases and more than 3,500 deaths.

Since May, restaurants in North Carolina have been able to open their dining rooms at 50% capacity. Initially face coverings were not required, though they were recommended based on restaurant guidelines developed by the state’s Department of Health and Human Services and the North Carolina Restaurant and Lodging Association. But since July, face coverings have been mandatory for people out in public, as well as people at work.

‘Multiple visits to reeducate employees’

Wilson County health department director Teresa Ellen confirmed that the department has received multiple complaints about Parker’s for COVID-related violations.

Ellen said that Parker’s has been the subject of 21 complaints since the beginning of the pandemic. The health director said she wasn’t sure if that was the most complaints for a restaurant, but that Parker’s is one of the busier restaurants in the county.

“Parker’s is one of the most popular restaurants in Wilson, so you have to take that into consideration,” Ellen said. “We have had complaints about other restaurants.”

Health departments tend to be the number people call with COVID-related complaints, but Ellen said they have no enforcement capabilities. Complaints about Parker’s have been turned over to the Wilson Police Department, she said.

“We have had complaints about Parker’s, mainly about staff not wearing masks,” Ellen said. “We’ve made multiple visits to reeducate employees of the restaurant and make sure they’re up to date on the latest guidelines. ... It’s always been our practice that when someone calls and makes a complaint, we make a visit. It’s not our intent to be punitive; we want to be a good community partner.”

Ellen said it was her understanding that masks are readily available for employees to wear.

Calls requesting comment from the Wilson Police Department were not returned.

Parker’s Barbecue is arguably the most popular and widely known restaurant in Wilson. Famous for chopped barbecue, fried chicken and thin corn sticks, Parker’s was opened in 1946 by the Parker brothers, Ralph, Graham and Henry, according to an interview in the Southern Foodways Alliance. The restaurant is now owned by Donald Williams, Kevin Lamm and Eric Lippard.

When the restaurant came under fire for reports of COVID-related complaints, fans of Parker’s appeared unwavering in their support of the restaurant. The Facebook group “I Support Parker’s Barbecue!” includes dozens of messages from people professing their love for the restaurant, even from those out-of-state reminiscing about eating at Parker’s.

Parker’s posted a photo of the owners on its own Facebook page, thanking fans for support.

When asked about plans to organize a gathering at Parker’s this Saturday, Wilson’s health department director encouraged people to remember the state’s COVID-guidelines of washing hands, maintaining a distance of six feet and wearing a face covering.

“As a public health representative, I’m going to promote that everyone remain six feet apart, wear masks and practices good hygiene,” Ellen said. “We’re supportive of all our restaurants; we’re here to provide guidance.”

T-shirts that show support

Kent Glover lives in Wilson and has been going to Parker’s for five decades. As part of the support for Parker’s, Glover started selling T-shirts bearing the message “I Support Parker’s Barbecue,” with proceeds going to the Wesley Shelter, an organization in Wilson that supports victims of domestic violence.

Glover said it was inevitable that the community would rally around Parker’s.

“Parker’s has always been an icon,” Glover said. “People are going to rally around Parker’s for sure. The guys always do a good job.”

Glover said he wasn’t bothered by reports of employees not wearing masks and said he doesn’t plan to wear a mask Saturday when he goes to Parker’s.

“Those guys are working in harsh conditions; it’s pretty hot back there,” Glover said of the Parker’s employees. “I feel for the guys.”

Comments on the Facebook group’s page generally do not support the guidelines taken to reduce the spread of the coronavirus. Many criticized people for making complaints, saying they should have left the restaurant if they felt uncomfortable, rather than finding fault with Parker’s for not enforcing guidelines.

Multiple messages seeking comments from the owners were not returned.

Glover said that Parker’s is supportive of the Wilson community and that Wilson would support them.

“Parker’s is a stand up organization,” Glover said. “They’re an unbelievably nice group of guys. Wilson is going to rally around them.”

This story was originally published October 1, 2020 at 5:49 PM with the headline "Barbecue restaurant gets complaints about lack of masks. Then customers rally around it.."

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Drew Jackson
The News & Observer
Drew Jackson writes about restaurants and dining for The News & Observer and The Herald-Sun, covering the food scene in the Triangle and North Carolina.
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