James Beard-winning Durham chef is taking crab grits to D.C. Here’s why
In a showcase of regional cuisines throughout America, James Beard-winning chef and Army vet Ricky Moore is representing the South.
Moore, chef and owner of Saltbox Seafood Joint in Durham, is cooking this weekend in Washington, D.C. as part of the Taste of America culinary event, part of the Spirit of Independence Festival hosted by the National Archives Foundation. The festival is being held to mark the 250th anniversary of the United States.
“It is a profound honor to stand in our nation’s capital and represent the South at the Taste of America during our country’s 250th anniversary,” Moore said in a release. “I’m proud to share the story of seasonal North Carolina seafood, coastal cooking, regional agriculture, and the hardworking NC fishing community whose heritage and dedication continue to shape our Southern foodways. This cuisine is born from the connection between water and land — from our marshes, sounds, farms, and fisheries —and reflects the culture and spirit of the South.”
Along Constitution Avenue in D.C., Moore and five other regional chefs will serve dishes highlighting cuisines from around the country. Moore said he was invited by the North Carolina Restaurant and Lodging Association and the National Restaurant Association.
For his dishes, Moore looked to the colors of the American flag and an annual Saltbox favorite.
He’s serving watermelon and buttery BBQ shrimp, crab grits and blueberry and lemon curd hand pies. Together the dishes make up the red, white and blue of the American flag.
“These are dishes I believe represent the South,” Moore said in a phone interview. “They’re seafood centric, because, well, that’s what it’s all about for me.”
Crab grits in the spotlight
The crab grits in particular are a Saltbox hall of fame dish, served once a year on the Tuesday before Thanksgiving. Lines form hours before the doors open that morning.
“It’s a killer,” Moore said, with a laugh. “And D.C. is a big crab-eating town.”
Moore grew up in New Bern, catching crabs and fishing as a kid before joining the Army and attending the prestigious Culinary Institute of America. After years in fine dining, Moore moved to Durham and opened the tiny seafood shack Saltbox. There he served idealized plates and rolls of seasonal fried fish and powerfully flavorful slaw and hush honeys.
For Saltbox, Moore won the 2022 James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southeast and has been a semifinalist for Outstanding Chef in the country.
Taste of America event is ‘non-political’
Moore said he was honored to get the Taste of America invite and rearranged his schedule to cook in the event. Some events around the 250th anniversary of America have been criticized for being overtly political, with some musical artists pulling out of the planned Freedom 250 concert, the New York Times reported last month.
Moore said he appreciated the non-partisan aspect of Taste of America and the opportunity to spotlight the role of food in forming the country’s identity.
“It’s held by the National Archives (Foundation),” Moore said. “It’s the first event of its kind. It’s a big event, it’s non-political, I made sure of that. I said, ‘Don’t call me with any foolishness.’ This is a celebratory event centered around food and culture.
This story was originally published June 5, 2026 at 10:37 AM with the headline "James Beard-winning Durham chef is taking crab grits to D.C. Here’s why."
