By Greg Kitsock

Special to The Washington Post

Today, "wassailing" means caroling from door to door. But originally, the word -- from the Middle English greeting "waes haeil," or "be hearty" -- referred to the strong drink that inspired enthusiastic if tone-deaf renditions of "God Rest Ye Merry, Gentlemen" and "Good King Wenceslas."

Modern wassails -- strong spiced ales -- can be bought premixed.

From Grimstad, Norway (practically Santa's back yard), comes Special Holiday Ale, a collaboration among the Nogne O microbrewery, Stone Brewing Co. in Escondido, Calif., and Bell's Brewery in Galesburg, Mich. This dark multigrain beer (brewed with barley, oats and rye) carries on the tradition of each reveler contributing an ingredient to the wassail.

Just as too many cooks can spoil a fine broth, too many brewers bearing too many condiments increase the likelihood that flavors will clash. Special Holiday Ale pulls off its juggling act well, as does Adoration, the new winter seasonal from the Brewery Ommegang in Cooperstown, N.Y. This russet-colored ale draws sweetness from cardamom and coriander, and a peppery zing from grains of paradise and mace.

A little less successful is Monk's Blood, the new limited release brewed by Minnesota's Cold Springs Brewing Co. for the 21st Amendment Brewery in San Francisco. The beer bills itself as a "Belgian-style dark ale brewed with cinnamon, vanilla, oak chips and dried figs."

The Het Anker brewery in Mechelen, Belgium, can trace its roots to 1369, a time when Geoffrey Chaucer was gathering material for his "Canterbury Tales." The brewery's Gouden Carolus Noel is a rich, mahogany-colored ale with a rummy, liqueurish sweetness that makes it a great accompaniment for spiced cake, gingerbread and other desserts.