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All wine works on Thanksgiving
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By Dave McIntyre

Special to The Washington Post

Thanksgiving dinner can be challenging from a wine-pairing perspective because it abandons the orderly progression of dishes, each requiring one wine, for a smorgasbord approach and a riot of flavors on the table all at once. To which I say: Embrace the challenge and open one of everything. Something on the table will match the wine in your glass. You just might need to be careful what you eat right before taking a sip.

That said, here are some easy guidelines to help you pair wines with your turkey and the trimmings.

First, bubbles go with everything. You cannot go wrong with champagne, Italian prosecco, Spanish cava or their sparkling cousins from California. Other versatile, food-friendly wines include Riesling, pinot noir, gamay (the grape of Beaujolais) and barbera.

Second, don't forget Beaujolais nouveau. Your wine-snob friends may sneer, but like Thanksgiving, Beaujolais nouveau is a celebration of the recent harvest, and it is conveniently released exactly one week before the turkey hits the table. This was a particularly strong vintage throughout France. And Beaujolais nouveau, with its grapey freshness, is the ideal partner for cranberry sauce.

Third, start with lighter wines and progress to heavier ones. Almost as important as matching flavors, you should consider the weight of your wine and food. So if you opt for an all-sparkling-wine dinner, start with a delicate prosecco and save the vintage champagne for the main course.

Fourth, the seasoning is just as important as the food. Pinot noir loves ginger. Syrah adores bacon. All wine lusts for tarragon.

McIntyre can be reached through his Web site, www.dmwineline.com.
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